Llanes in summer, almost

April 4th was a holiday in Oviedo so we took off to visit the coastal area of Llanes. Following directions gleaned from a well informed student and a young lady, whose favorite beach place happened to be on my to visit list, resulted in a perfect, iterated drive.

The map shows the village of Llanes

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I left the highway from Oviedo at the Celorio-Barros exit, finding few directions or signaling to guide the way after that. With 3 years of experience living in Asturias and some more in Cataluña I've adapted to the fact that asking the locals will definitely drive you towards the unexpected, and unplanned (they love to send you in the opposite direction you were heading to or else, that's the way I copy ;-) You'll find them looking at you with that sort of: "what the heck are You doing here!" expression, which keeps your mind open and alert. Meaning... grab the map(s) and start interacting with any gadgets at hand that provide access to updated directions, which is the same as to say: do your homework.


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There is a place called Cué, same as an associate in one of my projects, but I didn't find the place (the friend&associate is usually missing in action too most of the time...but loves to still be listed) eventually I managed to reach Andrín, the final destination for this trip. Andrín appears to be a dream-like village with very narrow roads (one track only operating as two most of them, so prepare to negotiate your way...). I found a kind of snack bar & barbecue kiosk (chiringuito for local standards), an appealing place with wooden benches outdoors like many an English pub, but this one is on a promontory right on top of the beach. Must be a fun place for the villagers at night :)

Bellota beach is pretty and pretty much deserted, the way down from the road is ... well, bumpy, so better drop the car and prepare "for a long and winding road"... to the hidden beach.

Playa del Toro was deserted but this was a working day, it probably gets very crowded on week-ends. Lovely sights ... funny rocks conforming a kind of extraterrestrial reef ... freezing water at least for my standards in June. I found a river but don't ask me the name... I'll check it out with one of my students, and let you know.

Spring in Cabranes

Spring has arrived...(a bit late if you live in Oviedo) We can confirm this after visiting Cabranes today.

A colleague mentioned the "Festival del Arróz con Leche", namely: Rice Pudding Festival in Cabranes today. I got lucky.

This has been going on for 30 years now, with a jury to try circa 70 contestants' produce, a village procession with bagpipes, and ... well, see the pictures, they tell the story.

Afterwards the village was going to have a barbecue, though I preferred to go jogging along the beautiful river trail and see where it led... I did visit the market and walk the alleys, to mingle with local folks and visitors for a great spring day.

You could see lot's of cider being splashed Asturian style "escanciada", listen to long speeches -in Spain the presence of the authorities still follows top-to-botton memes. Anyways .. it was not only great fun and a lovely day, I also discovered a great bar Casa Joselu (B&B too) with charming people and a beautiful trail to go biking or jogging (pic-nic areas included) by the river, which seems to go all the way to Villaviciosa... we'll have to check this out with a bike pretty soon.

The police where charming (yes!) ... the ones in Oviedo should go down there for some training on: how to plan in advance (all diversions of traffic worked beautifully) , treat people nicely (Cabranes ones not only responded to my questions...they smiled!) and be of service. (Yes, I said service).

Cabranes is an amazing place, while it brings back to mind the long gone voices of 80% of the population that had to migrate at the beginning of the XXth Century. (My grandparents on the Spanish side of the family and my dad included, but they left from different areas in Spain). There is a square named: Plaza de los Emigrantes, which is where the Festival center area was, the party was very much spread throughout the whole village. Word is they were able to ship their cherished rice pudding bottled to those living in South America... I'm thinking I'll have to go back to Cabranes... to learn some more :-)

See:

Cabranes Council Web

Article in buscolu.com

**Edited to comment that the trail is actually a few miles long... there is a plan to connect it with the other trail in Villaviciosa...we can only hope...

Pajares with plenty of snow.

snowy mountain hush
Originally uploaded by MarquiBeck

The mountains are always a mystifying experience, in particular with few people around and somewhat funny skies.

Pajares on January 2nd was such an experience: not far from home and still a universe away ... I finally made it there to learn that it wasn't such a tough road, nor such an expensive experience as it was in Cataluña. Over there you had to pay the gas, the toll-fee, the lifts, and so on. Here it's 1/3 of the gas for the runs are 66Km from Oviedo. Though I'm not sure how this might be on a snowy day... it was a very nice day, well most of the day, still the road was pretty icy (and narrow on the final stretch).

There is only one place to rent your gear, lucky me mine that had been left untouched for more than two years was still in reasonable shape. Two places to purchase your lift pass, but only one was open. People just took it as normal that they had to spend 30+ mins in line on the snow. (and it was pretty empty!)

The coffee shop at the base has acceptable coffee, the tenders were friendly. We shared our usual claims about the carrier Movistar not being worth a dime, much less the money we pay if they're not able to provide coverage at one of the main winter attractions in Asturias.

The lifts were okey, not too fast, not too slow, I've seen better and I've seen worse. The runs are all right ... not very extended but we enjoyed the options: crowded and easy going on the sunny side "del Sol", icy and bare on the shady side "el Tubo". Personnel were charming at all times, skiers mostly guys (where are the lady skiers in Asturias?), not so communicative as they can be in the Andes, though I did manage a brief conversation or two.

Fall in Asturias

Fall in Asturias
Originally uploaded by MarquiBeck

So autumn is here, and New York Times Photographer Bill Cunningham seems to be thrilled: See.

In Asturias September and October remind me of the best weeks in Monterey Bay for the weather is similar, the aromas and sounds are not of course.

River vistas

River vista
Originally uploaded by MarquiBeck

En route from the village of Grado to Cangas del Narcea. Con la nueva vía de Oviedo a La Espina se llega pronto a Grado, el camino a la Espina y luego Salas está en construcción (tremendos viaductos) así que vayan con paciencia.

Grado tiene mercado los miércoles y domingos ... lo que se traduce como sitio/momento de encuentro de la gente del lugar que puebla las terrazas con todas las abuelas y abuelos -una de Fellini: mucho jolgorio.

Camino de Salas topé con una planta de Danone y poco más allá un casco antiguo de aparecer en libros de historia. (dejamos esa parada para otra vuelta pues el verde tira más).

Siguiendo el río Narcea en Tineo aparece lo mejor (en Cangas el pueblo no conseguí info local sobre sitios especiales para visitar ... así que flowers, seguí viaje). Bajando por el embalse de la Florida la zona esconde maravillas al natural -sin mucho acceso al río también para disfrutar. O eso me pareció: no di con paradas por el camino con accesos y más info, sí algún sitio para pescar de lejos y los tradicionales bares del camino para parar con una mesita casi en la ruta. Queda para otra vuelta regresar de la Espina hacia la costa, con encuentros pendientes en Ballota area, el camino a Degaña e Ibias en dirección a León, la Reserva de Muniellos y tanto más...